how to make soft jaws for a vise

Magnetic Soft Jaws for a Vise

• Step 1: Tools and Materials Tools Saw Tin snips Grinder ...
• Step 2: Paper Pattern Cut two pieces of furring strip the length of the jaws. Place one into the vise as you want it to be when finished. ...
• Step 3: Cut Two Pieces of Sheet Metal ...
• Step 4: Bend to Fit ...
• Step 5: Drill and Attach ...
• Step 6: When Not in Use ...
• Step 7: Finished ...

Full Answer

How do you use a vise jaws?

Hold workpieces steady with these vise jaws— they work with slot-mount workstops so you can quickly position, adjust, and change out your workpieces. Using jaws and workstops together keeps the workpiece from slipping, and gives you more control over the position than jaws alone.

What is the difference between aluminum and steel vise jaws?

Steel jaws are more durable than aluminum. For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number. Wd. Ht. Thick. Thick. Tolerance Hold workpieces steady with these vise jaws— they work with slot-mount workstops so you can quickly position, adjust, and change out your workpieces.

How do you use jaws and workstops together?

Using jaws and workstops together keeps the workpiece from slipping, and gives you more control over the position than jaws alone. Slide your workstop into a slot on either the top or the bottom jaw and tighten with a screw. One slot is closer to the jaw face than the other to give you more positioning options.

What are the jaws made of?

Made from unhardened metal, machine these jaws to fit the contours and curves of your workpiece. They have an industry standard hole pattern that fits most manufacturers' vises, including Kurt, Chick, TE- CO, Toolex, and Palmgren. Steel jaws are more durable than aluminum. For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number. Wd. Ht.

What are soft jaws made of?

Generally, soft jaws are made out of mild steel, but they can be cut out of even softer materials, like aluminum.

What is the best wood for vice jaws?

You can use plywood, a good grade, or solid wood, even pine, if that's what you have, to line the jaws of your vise. In this case I've chosen sapele, an african hardwood with perfect hardness and compression for this work. I've used it before and it's one of the best.

How do you make a vice jaw protector?

1:585:35Making Vice Jaw Protectors - Making Your Own Jewellery - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipWe can fold over they got two pieces of copper. And we're just going to cut through those. AndMoreWe can fold over they got two pieces of copper. And we're just going to cut through those. And advantage with these types of jaw covers is this once they become really worn like this one here.

How thick should wood vise jaws be?

9/4 thickThe bench face and end vises are both Veritas twin screw of 24 inch length. The jaws are 9/4 thick, 8 inches deep and made of hard maple.

How do you make wood vise jaws?

0:215:35Making New Vice Jaws - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipIt's a hardwood. So it'll be nice and durable the jaws on my other vise they were just made fromMoreIt's a hardwood. So it'll be nice and durable the jaws on my other vise they were just made from some block board which is laminated pieces of pine with a veneer on both faces.

Which material is used to make the jaw plates of bench vice?

It is sometimes made of cast steel or malleable cast iron, but most are made of cast iron. The jaws are often separate and replaceable, usually engraved with serrated or diamond teeth. Soft jaw covers made of aluminum, copper, wood (for woodworking) or plastic may be used to protect delicate work.

What are soft jaws for vise?

Product OverviewSoft jaw covers is designed to work with most vises having jaws from 3 to 6 in. wide.Designed to avoid marring of already machined surfaces, soft metals and wood.Securely fastens over steel vise jaws with 2 magnets.Grooved to assist in holding irregular shapes, round stock, tubing etc.BESSEY.

What are vise jaws?

Vise jaws are inserts that fit into a vise and grip the workpiece. Aluminum vise jaws are used to hold and protect round, hexagonal, or serrated parts. Rubber-faced vise jaws are also used to protect fragile parts from damage and may be suitable for holding irregular shapes.

What is a vise clamp?

noun A supplemental vise-jaw of such form as to hold work of unusual shape or material without injury. noun A clamp by which a vise can be temporarily secured to a bench or other object.

What is a front dog on a vice?

On woodworking vices, the dog is an adjustable piece of metal incorporated into the front of a vice in order to prevent a workpiece from moving if it is laid horizontally on top of a woodworking bench.

How do you protect wood in a vise?

0:151:08How to Prevent a Workshop Vice from Damaging Wood - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipJust put it in place crank. It down I matter how much pressure you put on this. You're going to haveMoreJust put it in place crank. It down I matter how much pressure you put on this. You're going to have those pads in place.

What vise does Paul Sellers use?

Paul has also recommends the Eclipse 9″ Quick Release vise as it is more readily available and seems to hold up well.

What is throat depth on a bench vice?

Throat Depth of the Vise This is one of the main factors to consider. While selecting a bench vise, you have to check its throat depth – this is the distance from the top side of the jaw to the top of the slide below the jaw. Larger throat depths mean you can hold larger workpieces.

How do you build a vise workbench?

0:117:17How to make a Workbench Vise ( DIY MOXON VISE ) - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipThe radius jig definitely made this a little easier and more accurate. But you can totally use a jigMoreThe radius jig definitely made this a little easier and more accurate. But you can totally use a jig saw to round this over. On one side of the jaw. I need to round out a dado slab.

How is the size of a bench vise determined?

Vises are typically available in 4, 5, 6 & 8" sizes. These sizes refer to the width of the jaws. The larger and heavier the object to be held the larger the vise required. As a general rule of thumb, the maximum throat depth is typically proportionate to the jaw width.

How do you hang a vise without a bench?

2:096:17Mounting a vise without taking up bench space. - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipSo you just go to the spot that it's at. And the holes are just a little bit loose so that they don'MoreSo you just go to the spot that it's at. And the holes are just a little bit loose so that they don't bind up.

Step 1

These erasers were flexible which I hope meant would allow them to contour to the shape of whatever clamp in them.

Step 2

The first thing I did was to square them off. So I marked the length of my vice jaws and used my band saw to cut the excess off the erasers.

Step 3

Next I marked the locations of the magnets. I made sure that the magnets would align with the flat portion of the inside of the vice jaws. I used the magnets as templates to mark the position of the holes. Then I took the erasers to my drill press and drilled two holes. I made sure the holes were roughly the width and depth of the magnets.

Step 4

After drilling all the holes I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy and glued the magnets in place. Do not use acetone to clean the residual epoxy it may eat away at the eraser.

Step 5

I tested the soft jaws and was surprised how well they worked. They gripped the knife blade well with no issues and no marring. This is a very simple but very useful build. I hope you all find this helpful.

The Stock

I started with 1″x2″ aluminum stock. The jaws are 5″ long, so I cut a couple of pieces just a little longer than that.

Squaring and Facing

The aluminum extrusion is actually quite straight and parallel, but I wanted to be sure, so I started by facing off all four sides. The order matters if we want the blocks to be as square as possible:

Boring the Holes

To bore the holes, I used a 3/8″ three-flute aluminum-specific end mill. I’ve been using the YG-1 Alu-Power end mills in the 1/4″ size for a while and really like them. This was my first experience with the 3/8″ size.

Side Milling to Length

I ended up just side-milling the jaws to length using the same 3/8″ end mill in the same setup. Since these jaws are slightly longer than the stock jaws in the vise, this was convenient. Side milling is always something I try to avoid, but the Alu-Power end mill just plowed through the material, throwing a shower of aluminum snow.

Finishing Up

A few chamfers and a little deburring and the jaws are ready to use. I generally chamfer using a 90 degree spotting drill. Chamfer mills can be very expensive, and a half-inch spotting drill does a great job on the cheap. The one I have is a YG-1 cobalt spotting drill, and it’s been great in every material I’ve tried.

Drawings

If you’d like to make a set for yourself, you can download a set of drawings here:

Magnetic-Mount Bench Vise Jaw Liners

Quickly install these magnetic-backed liners to protect workpieces from marring.

V-Block Magnetic-Mount Bench Vise Jaw Liners

Attach these V-shaped liners to vise jaws and hold large round material. Liners are made of plastic that won't mar workpieces.

Wraparound Bench Vise Jaw Liners

Fold the pliable tabs over vise jaws to protect workpieces from marring.

Set-Screw-Mount Bench Vise Jaw Liners

Place over vise jaws and tighten the screws to protect workpieces from marring.

Drop-In Bench Vise Jaw Liners

Insert these one-piece grooved liners between vise jaws and tighten to squeeze closed and hold small-diameter material vertically.

Machinable Milling-Machine Vise Jaws

Made from unhardened metal, machine these jaws to fit the contours and curves of your workpiece. They have an industry standard hole pattern that fits most manufacturers' vises, including Kurt, Chick, TE- CO, Toolex, and Palmgren.

Slotted Milling-Machine Vise Jaws

Hold workpieces steady with these vise jaws— they work with slot-mount workstops so you can quickly position, adjust, and change out your workpieces. Using jaws and workstops together keeps the workpiece from slipping, and gives you more control over the position than jaws alone.

The Stock

Squaring and Facing

• The aluminum extrusion is actually quite straight and parallel, but I wanted to be sure, so I started by facing off all four sides. The order matters if we want the blocks to be as square as possible: 1. Hold the stock in the vise on parallels and face one flat side. 2. Turn the flat side against the fixed jaw and face one edge perpendicular to thi...

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Boring The Holes

Side Milling to Length

Finishing Up

Drawings